Hay on Wye - visiting the book town during the virtual festival
Gamblers might head to Vegas, but bibliophiles can find their fix a little closer to home.
Hay-on-Wye, perched on the England/Wales border in the shadow of the Brecon Beacons, is home to an estimated 30 book shops.
Should you happen upon this place by chance, and the plethora of reading material retailers aren't obvious, wooden planters marking the town’s central area emblazoned “Hay on Wye. World’s First Book Town” confirm.
But the names Waterstones, Foyles or Kindle have no business here. Hay’s myriad reading havens are of the independent and endearingly quirky kind.
Take Richard Booth’s for example, the self-proclaimed King of Hay that coined the diminutive town’s ‘book town’ moniker.
The exterior of his striking central bookstore and coffee shop features maroon paint, a golden lion and hand painted animal tiling. The beam-clad, creaking interior is where Hay’s world renowned reading and writing reputation began back in 1962. While bookish types might be considered reserved, this place demands attention.
The labyrinthine Hay Cinema Bookshop is no shrinking violet either. What was once home to the big screen now makes thousands of second-hand reads the stars of the show.
As with countless events that usually draw the masses, the globally acclaimed Hay Festival has for the second year gone digital thanks to Covid. But as we wandered the narrow streets on late May bank holiday weekend, traditionally peak festival season, its presence was very much alive.
From the bunting-festooned lampposts, to the prominently pinned posters promising a packed and impressive online programme, there was no avoiding the spectacle that’s put Hay on the global literary map.
The Hay Festival’s been on my bucket list for a while, so with the IRL version scuppered for 2021, was it wise to make my first visit an effectively out of season one?
In short, yes.
Hay’s all about the books. And the books are there whether it’s festival season or not. Those fond of the written word will enjoy this place 365 days of the year.
Despite the absence of in-person events and audiences, literary delight came from knowing that by simply signing up for the virtual festival, you could follow along, dipping in and out of anything from that caught your eye.
And so there was no disappointment at missing out on tickets to hear from a favourite author, because seats were unlimited. There was no cursing the person next to you with the loud laugh because when and where you watched the festival was fully flexible.
And when it came to scenic nooks and crannies from which to tune into hundreds of talks on anything from culture to comedy, food, music, travel and tech, or to get lost in the pages of your bookshop hauls, Hay had them in abundance.
Down by the water: as the name suggests, Hay’s flanked by the River Wye, the banks of which offer paths punctuated by benches made for a restful read. Look out for the wooden whittled foxes, herons and owls snatching a chapter over your shoulder.
The Warren: a buttercup strewn slope leads to Hay’s very own shingly beach on a bend in the river. A hot spot for swimming and dogs chasing sticks, with a blanket and some snacks it makes the ideal base for some page-turning.
The Bean Box: a converted shed serving teas, coffees and cakes is to be applauded for its simplicity. Treat yourself to a cappuccino and a flapjack in this peaceful riverside garden and delve into a good read as the Wye meanders by.
Hay Bluff: if you like your literature with dramatic 360 views, an ambitious hike to the summit of Hay Bluff offers vistas across England and Wales. A cheery greeting from fellow hikers and a sheep’s bleat are the only things likely to interrupt the peace on this high point of the Black Mountain range.
The Hay Festival’s virtual incarnation by no means diminishes Hay on Wye’s ‘book town’ status. But I hope my next opportunity to hear from some of the reading and writing world’s royalty won’t be reliant on WiFi. And better still, I hope the unmistakable smell of dusty pages won’t have to be masked by a face covering.
Catch The Hay Festival online from 26 May to 6 June 2021.
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