A December day in Luxembourg

What signals the start of the Christmas season for you? Hearing the smooth tones of Bublé oozing from the Asda sound system? Getting the "HOL-idays are coming" Coca-Cola ad chant lodged in your head? Or how about drowning your usual latte order in sickly gingerbread syrup, not because you enjoy it, but because it's festive?

There are countless cliches and traditions associated with the opening of yuletide. But to completely immerse yourself in all things seasonal and start the festivities with a blast to the senses, a short Christmas break featuring a suitable Christmas market is arguably one of the best places to begin. And though there are plenty of excellent options in cities across the UK, a European Christmas market has a unique magic not quite matched at home.

Luxembourg may be one of Europe's smallest countries, but it's big on Christmas market charm. Under the banner Winter Lights - a programme of events, exhibitions, workshops and activities spanning late November to early January - the markets occur across multiple scenic sites across Luxembourg City. Visitors can expect to be dazzled and delighted by light displays and fairground rides and pick up unique handmade gifts from the enticing wooden chalets. Perhaps best of all, feast on fine local food and drink served and consumed stood at one of the many stalls lining the city's historic squares.

With limited time to spare on our early December whistlestop tour of Luxembourg, we made sure to cram in as much market and other Christmassy shenanigans as possible.

Stop one: Place d’Armes

One of the benefits of Luxembourg being so dinky is that everything is accessible within a few minutes' walk. And so finding Place d'Armes by chance within moments of stepping off the bus, especially with temperatures hovering around zero, proved welcome. This market takes over a 17th-century square framed by shops and restaurants and is dominated by a sparkling Christmas tree and other greenery draped in lights. Here, the much-loved sights, smells and sounds of Christmas fuse to create a magical buzz. Guided by the lights and following everyone battling the chill, we found a wooden table for leaning and guzzled hot spiced red wine, or vin chaud or glühwein, depending on which of the three local languages you opt for. This Christmas market classic came served in a souvenir Luxembourg mug, yours to take away if you’re happy to forfeit your deposit. Otherwise good for warming your hands and keeping hold of for inevitable refills.

Stop two: Place De La Constitution

As hunger took hold, another brief wander brought us to a second market site in the Place De La Constitution, a bigger, bolder cousin of the Place d’Armes market. Another historical hotspot, this market is spread across the base of a medieval fort overhanging a gorge. As expected, a large decorated evergreen dominates, but in this part of the market, it competes for attention with a towering monument topped with the Gelle Fra or Golden Lady - a memorial to Luxembourgers who volunteered in WW1. Scaling the tree/monument didn’t seem practical, so we chose the illuminated Ferris wheel to get our bearings. A few rotations gave a bird’s eye view of the diminutive city and the chance to check out the market's layout and potential refuelling stops.

Most of the Place De La Constitution market is dedicated to eating everything from traditional sausage or raclette to sweet crepes and chocolate-coated waffles. But one delicacy cried out to be sampled. Gromperekichelcher are flat, round fried potato cakes, similar to rosti and served warm, crispy, delicious and pleasingly - in threes. Ours came with apple sauce for dipping, but for a bit of zing, mustard is an equally complimentary condiment.

Stop three: Grund

Not a market but somewhere equally qualified to put you in the Christmas spirit. Grund is one of the oldest quarters of Luxembourg city and sits in a steep valley alongside the Alzette River. Access is via leisurely descent on a series of winding pathways, stopping at various levels for photo opps. Alternatively, take the lift from Plateau St. Esprit for a speedier route to ground (Grund?) level. Before you drop to the lower part of the city, be sure to admire its rooftops from above. The fortress ramparts above the Casemates du Bock network of tunnels make the perfect vantage point for this.

Grund can be covered on foot in minutes, so you can take your time here. It’s formed of narrow, curving, cobbled streets and has a peaceful village feel with few cars to interfere with your wandering. Its distinctive, pretty houses wear decorations effortlessly; when we visited, we spotted a building by the bridge looking resplendent with its garlanded windows. The whole effect was like stepping into a Christmas card scene, despite the grey gloom enveloping the place when we visited. There are a handful of bars and restaurants, a park and a natural history museum. Besides that, Grund is mainly made for slow admiration of its fairytale-esque atmosphere.

Getting there

Luxembourg’s airport is around 8km from the city. Beware of rapidly escalating taxi meters and consider getting the bus to the centre. Public transport in Luxembourg is fast, reliable and, best of all, free!  

And if you'd prefer to avoid air travel, Luxembourg's easily accessible by rail or road from other major European cities and could easily form part of a multi-stop Christmas Market-hopping tour. One to consider for next year.